ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Records 1955-1978
Collection Number: 5619/042
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
Cornell University Library
Title:
ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Records, 1955-1978
Collection Number:
5619/042
Creator:
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union.
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America.
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America.
Quantity:
2 linear feet
Forms of Material:
Correspondence, reports, publications.
Repository:
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives, Cornell University Library
Abstract:
This collection consists of Union Label agreements and correspondence with various manufacturers, mostly from
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, but a few from Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union.
Language:
Collection material in English
The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, the most significant union representing workers in the men's clothing industry,
was founded in
New York City in 1914 as a breakaway movement from the United Garment Workers. Radical and immigrant workers in the tailors’
and cutters’ locals
were the core of the seceding group, which advocated industrial unionism and economic strikes in opposition to the UGW’s
craft organization, which
they saw as conservative and timid. Their diverging views had come to the fore during the historic 1910 dispute at the
Chicago firm Hart, Schaffner,
and Marx. The opposition called the strike against the UGW leadership’s advice, and reached a path-breaking agreement
with management that
established an arbitration system to settle disputes.
Members flocked to the new union. Around 50,000 strong at its founding, by 1920 the ACWA counted about 170,000 members. Initially
composed mostly of
immigrants of Jewish European descent with Socialist leanings, the ACWA quickly welcomed members of a great number of
nationalities and diverse
backgrounds. Like in other garment unions, most workers and many members were women, but the leadership was predominantly
male, a situation that
did not change for many decades. Early on the union adopted a centralized administrative structure combined with industrial
unionism, with the
joint boards’ by-laws having precedence over those of locals.
Espousing a philosophy perhaps brought over by its early immigrant socialist members, the Amalgamated went beyond bread and
butter issues and
adopted a distinctive form of social unionism that was largely absent in the American labor movement. Starting in the
1920s, it provided
educational opportunities and recreational facilities for its members, as well as services such as an insurance plan,
banks offering personal
loans at low interest rates, low-cost housing cooperatives, medical clinics, and even union-owned restaurants.
Sidney Hillman was the first president of the new union and the most important officer in its history. He applied his experience
as bargaining
representative in Chicago to the whole industry. Under his leadership the union made significant strides in securing better
wages and working
conditions for its members, and at the same time it consolidated gains and provided stability to the industry through
the widespread adoption
of the arbitration system tested at Hart, Schaffner, and Marx. Hillman paid close attention to industry issues, such as
production, pricing, and
marketing. In order to help management meet the competition of non-union firms, the union conducted studies of efficiency,
work methods, and factory
costs. Letters to the official publication of the union, Advance, document the controversy that ensued within the union
over what was perceived to
be collaboration with management.
Hillman also understood the importance of labor’s involvement in national affairs and political action. In the 1920s the ACWA
sent delegates to the
Conference for Progressive Political Action and to the Farmer-labor party conventions. Although many members and officers
were Socialists, the
union stopped short of officially endorsing the party. Communist attempts at gaining influence within the union were firmly
curbed. Hillman’s
participation in national affairs and politics became prominent during the New Deal, when he became a close advisor to
Franklin D. Roosevelt on
labor and economic issues. He also served on the board of the National Recovery Administration. Later, during World War
II, he helped establish
the Labor’s Non Partisan League. He was also named associate director of the Office of Production Management, which assisted
in mobilizing the
nation's resources for the war effort. Hillman’s prestige perhaps reflected the healthy condition of his union, which
by the end of the conflict
was strong and stable.
During the post World War II period the union faced a number of significant challenges. Membership continued to grow (peaking
at 395,000 in 1968),
but the union’s political influence and visibility in national affairs declined. In their never ending pursuit of lower
production costs, many
firms relocated to the South, forcing the union to engage in large organizing efforts. Simultaneously, signs began to
appear of changes that
would lead to the almost complete demise of the domestic apparel industry and, ultimately, to the erosion of union membership.
Foreign imports
of cheap clothing goods steadily grew in the 1950s and 1960s, and mushroomed in the following two decades, plunging employment
in the apparel
sector into a steady decline. Union efforts to stem the tide included Buy American campaigns and extensive lobbying in
Congress, but they were
to no avail. In 1976, the ACWA merged with the Textile Workers of America to become the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile
Workers Union. Despite
successful and much publicized nationwide actions such as the Farah boycott and the J.P. Stevens corporate campaign, the
woes threatening the
union’s existence continued unabated. The fate of the domestic industry was sealed in the late 1970s and the 1980s by
the flight of firms chasing
tax breaks and cheap labor abroad. By 1995, when ACTWU voted to merge with the International Ladies' Garment Workers'
Union, their combined
membership was 350,000. The new Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE!) seemed poised to infuse
new life in a
troubled union.
Names:
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union --Archives
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America --Archives
International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union --Archives
Union of Needeltrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE) --Archives
UNITE HERE (Organization) --Archives
Subjects:
Textile industry--New York (State)--New York
Textile workers--Labor unions--New York (State)--New York
Clothing trade--New York (State)--New York
Clothing workers--Labor unions--New York (State)--New York
Form and Genre Terms:
Correspondence
Records
Access Restrictions:
Access to the collections in the Kheel Center is restricted. Please contact a reference archivist for access to these materials.
Restrictions on Use:
This collection must be used in keeping with the Kheel Center Information Sheet and Procedures for Document Use.
Cite As:
ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Records #5619/042. Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives,
Cornell University Library.
Related collections:
5619: Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America
5619/042 MB: ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Memorabilia
And all other 5619 collections.
5619: Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America
5619/042 MB: ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Memorabilia
And all other 5619 collections.
Container
|
Description
|
Date
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 1 |
Appollo Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 2 |
Asbury Sportswear
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 3 |
Ascot Manufacturing
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 4 |
Ashley Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 5 |
William Atkin Shirt
|
1956-1967 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 6 |
Atlantic Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 7 |
Banner Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 8 |
Bartlay
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 9 |
Bayard Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 10 |
Best Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 11 |
Boblen Shirt
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 12 |
Brill Shirt and Neckwear
|
1958-1960 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 13 |
Burton Manufacturing
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 14 |
Burnley Shirt
|
1960-1974 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 15 |
Butler Shirt
|
1956-1958 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 16 |
Carlton Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 17 |
Cluett, Peabody and Company
|
1955-1974 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 18 |
Creighton Shirt
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 19 |
S. Dennis
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 20 |
Die and Stamp Makers
|
1955-1972 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 21 |
Charles Dobbs
|
1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 22 |
Eagle Shirtmakers
|
1955-1970 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 23 |
Elizabeth Shirt
|
1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 24 |
Elm City Shirt
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 25 |
El Rey Manufacturing
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 26 |
Larry R. Engelson
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 27 |
Enro Shirt
|
1955-1972 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 28 |
Fair Manufacturing
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 29 |
Fashion Glenshire
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 30 |
M. Fine and Sons Manufacturing
|
1972 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 31 |
Flair-Tex
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 32 |
Flushing Shirt
|
1955-1976 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 33 |
Fredwin Casuals
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 34 |
Freedman Rodelheim Shirtmakers
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 35 |
Fruitland Manufacturing
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 36 |
Gant of New Haven
|
1955-1975 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 37 |
Gateway Manufacturing
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 38 |
Glaser Enterprises
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 39 |
Gold Medal Shirt
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 40 |
Greystone Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 41 |
Hamilton Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 42 |
Harwood Manufacturing
|
1955-1975 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 43 |
C. F. Hathaway
|
1955-1969 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 44 |
Hema Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 45 |
Henry Charles
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 46 |
Holbrooke Shirt
|
1964-1965 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 47 |
Ide Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 48 |
International Ticket
|
1955-1957 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 49 |
Joel Isaacs Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 50 |
F. Jacobson and Sons
|
1955-1970 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 51 |
J. and R. Shirt
|
1957 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 52 |
Kaymore Shirt
|
1955-1957 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 53 |
David Kurtz
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 54 |
Lehman Baer
|
1957 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 55 |
Lesnow Manufacturing
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 56 |
Leventhal Brothers
|
1956-1977 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 57 |
Lido Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 58 |
Linwood Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 59 |
Loeb and Loeb
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 60 |
Loev Brothers
|
1959 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 61 |
Lustbery, Nast and Company
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 62 |
Lynn Shirt
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 63 |
McGregor Sportswear (D. Doniger)
|
1955 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 64 |
Manhattan Shirt
|
1955-1974 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 1 |
Marlboro Shirt
|
1955-1958 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 2 |
Marvlee Manufacturing
|
1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 3 |
Mather Shirts
|
1957 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 4 |
Steve Matson Products
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 5 |
M and B Sportswear
|
1958 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 6 |
Elton Meltzer
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 7 |
Meyersdale Shirt
|
1956-1958 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 8 |
Morgan Shirt
|
1970 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 9 |
M and S Shirt
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 10 |
Normandie Press
|
1955 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 11 |
Oberman and Company
|
1956-1957 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 12 |
O. K. Uniform
|
1958 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 13 |
Par-Ex Shirt (Sero of New Haven)
|
1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 14 |
Park Guild Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 15 |
Parkley Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 16 |
Peerless Robes and Sportswear
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 17 |
Pelham Sportswear
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 18 |
Al Peter Shirt
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 19 |
Pine Shirt and Pajama
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 20 |
Pottstown Shirt
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 21 |
Publix Shirt
|
1955-1977 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 22 |
Quaker Shirt
|
1955-1957 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 23 |
M. H. Raab Meyerhoff
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 24 |
Radiant Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 25 |
Rich Guild Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 26 |
Rivoli Shirt
|
1955-1958 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 27 |
Rob Roy
|
1955-1957 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 28 |
Rubury Shirt
|
1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 29 |
Sagamore Shirt
|
1956-1958 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 30 |
Sam-Son Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 31 |
Savada Brothers
|
1957-1960 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 32 |
Seaford Garment
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 33 |
Shelby Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 34 |
Shirtcraft
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 35 |
Shirt Label Requests
|
1978 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 36 |
Shirt Union Label Records. M
|
1955-1972 |
Form I, Form II, and Label Die invoices.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 37 |
Shirt Union Label Records. N-P
|
1955-1977 |
Form I, Form II, and Label Die invoices.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 38 |
Shirt Union Label Records. Q-Z
|
1955-1970 |
Form I, Form II, and Label Die invoices.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 39 |
Silver Springs Sportswear
|
1956-1972 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 40 |
Southeastern Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 41 |
Spaide Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 42 |
S and S Shirt
|
1972 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 43 |
Sportsville Menswear
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 44 |
Stratford Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 45 |
Robert Terry Garment
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 46 |
Tyson Shirt
|
1955-1957 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 47 |
Louis R. Ulanoff
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 48 |
Neckwear Union Label Die
|
1961 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 49 |
Union Label
|
1955-1970 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 50 |
Union Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 51 |
Usona Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 52 |
Victory Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 53 |
Bernard Walsh
|
|
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 54 |
Warrenshire Shirt
|
1955 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 55 |
Watson Shirt
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 56 |
Weiss Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 57 |
Whitney Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 58 |
Wide Awake Shirt
|
1956-1976 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 59 |
J. E. Wiegard
|
1957-1965 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 60 |
Wilson Brothers
|
1955-1956 |
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 61 |
Yardleigh Sportswear
|
1956 |
Union Label Correspondence.
|