ACWA Bessie Hillman Papers
Collection Number: 5619/005
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives, Cornell University Library
Title:
ACWA Bessie Hillman Papers,
1922-1996
Collection Number:
5619/005
Creator:
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of
America (ACWA);
Hillman, Bessie Abramowitz
Hillman, Bessie Abramowitz
Quantity:
0.5 linear ft.
Forms of Material:
Records (documents), correspondence,
publications.
Repository:
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and
Archives, Cornell University Library
Language:
Collection material in English
The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, the most significant union representing
workers in the men's clothing industry, was founded in New York City in 1914 as a
breakaway movement from the United Garment Workers. Radical and immigrant workers in
the tailors' and cutters' locals were the core of the seceding group, which
advocated industrial unionism and economic strikes in opposition to the UGW's craft
organization, which they saw as conservative and timid. Their diverging views had
come to the fore during the historic 1910 dispute at the Chicago firm Hart,
Schaffner, and Marx. The opposition called the strike against the UGW leadership's
advice, and reached a path-breaking agreement with management that established an
arbitration system to settle disputes.
Members flocked to the new union. Around 50,000 strong at its founding, by 1920 the
ACWA counted about 170,000 members. Initially composed mostly of immigrants of
Jewish European descent with Socialist leanings, the ACWA quickly welcomed members
of a great number of nationalities and diverse backgrounds. Like in other garment
unions, most workers and many members were women, but the leadership was
predominantly male, a situation that did not change for many decades. Early on the
union adopted a centralized administrative structure combined with industrial
unionism, with the joint boards' by-laws having precedence over those of locals.
Espousing a philosophy perhaps brought over by its early immigrant socialist members,
the Amalgamated went beyond bread and butter issues and adopted a distinctive form
of social unionism that was largely absent in the American labor movement. Starting
in the 1920s, it provided educational opportunities and recreational facilities for
its members, as well as services such as an insurance plan, banks offering personal
loans at low interest rates, low-cost housing cooperatives, medical clinics, and
even union-owned restaurants.
Sidney Hillman was the first president of the new union and the most important
officer in its history. He applied his experience as bargaining representative in
Chicago to the whole industry. Under his leadership the union made significant
strides in securing better wages and working conditions for its members, and at the
same time it consolidated gains and provided stability to the industry through the
widespread adoption of the arbitration system tested at Hart, Schaffner, and Marx.
Hillman paid close attention to industry issues, such as production, pricing, and
marketing. In order to help management meet the competition of non-union firms, the
union conducted studies of efficiency, work methods, and factory costs. Letters to
the official publication of the union, Advance, document the controversy that ensued
within the union over what was perceived to be collaboration with management.
Hillman also understood the importance of labor's involvement in national affairs and
political action. In the 1920s the ACWA sent delegates to the Conference for
Progressive Political Action and to the Farmer-labor party conventions. Although
many members and officers were Socialists, the union stopped short of officially
endorsing the party. Communist attempts at gaining influence within the union were
firmly curbed. Hillman's participation in national affairs and politics became
prominent during the New Deal, when he became a close advisor to Franklin D.
Roosevelt on labor and economic issues. He also served on the board of the National
Recovery Administration. Later, during World War II, he helped establish the Labor's
Non Partisan League. He was also named associate director of the Office of
Production Management, which assisted in mobilizing the nation's resources for the
war effort. Hillman's prestige perhaps reflected the healthy condition of his union,
which by the end of the conflict was strong and stable.
During the post World War II period the union faced a number of significant
challenges. Membership continued to grow (peaking at 395,000 in 1968), but the
union's political influence and visibility in national affairs declined. In their
never ending pursuit of lower production costs, many firms relocated to the South,
forcing the union to engage in large organizing efforts. Simultaneously, signs began
to appear of changes that would lead to the almost complete demise of the domestic
apparel industry and, ultimately, to the erosion of union membership. Foreign
imports of cheap clothing goods steadily grew in the 1950s and 1960s, and mushroomed
in the following two decades, plunging employment in the apparel sector into a
steady decline. Union efforts to stem the tide included Buy American campaigns and
extensive lobbying in Congress, but they were to no avail. In 1976, the ACWA merged
with the Textile Workers of America to become the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile
Workers Union. Despite successful and much publicized nationwide actions such as the
Farah boycott and the J.P. Stevens corporate campaign, the woes threatening the
union's existence continued unabated. The fate of the domestic industry was sealed
in the late 1970s and the 1980s by the flight of firms chasing tax breaks and cheap
labor abroad. By 1995, when ACTWU voted to merge with the International Ladies'
Garment Workers' Union, their combined membership was 350,000. The new Union of
Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE!) seemed poised to infuse new
life in a troubled union.
Bessie Abramowitz Hillman was born May 15, 1889 in Russia and immigrated to the
United States in 1905. At the age of 16 she began working in a garment factory. She
was later fired after organizing to protest working conditions. Using an alias, she
found work as a button sewer at the Hart, Schaffner, and Marx factory. She continued
labor movement activity, leading a walkout of 16 female garment workers in September
1910 that grew into a strike of thousands of workers.
She married Sidney Hillman in 1916. When he moved to New York City to become
president of the AWCA until his death in 1946, Bessie continued her union activities
as an unpaid volunteer. She was appointed Education Director of the Laundry Workers
Joint Board (part of the ACWA). After Sidney Hillman's death she accepted a paid
position as an ACWA Vice President in charge of the union's education programs. She
was also involved in civil rights, child welfare, women's rights, and peace movement
activities. She remained involved in union activities until her death on December
23, 1970.
Bessie Hillman served with the CIO and AFL-CIO Civil Rights Committees, the CIO
Community Services Committee, the National Consumers League, the American Labor
Education Service, Inc., the Committee on Protective Labor Legislation, the Child
Welfare Committee of New York, and the Defense Advisory Commission on Women in the
Services, and she was appointed by President John F. Kennedy to the President's
Commission on the Status of Women.
This collection consists of articles, memorabilia, and photographs by, or about,
Bessie Hillman.
Also included are newspaper clippings and correspondence regarding the death of her
husband, Sidney Hillman.
Names:
Hillman, Bessie
Hillman, Sidney, 1887-1946
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America
Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile
Employees
UNITE HERE (Organization)
Subjects:
Textile workers--Labor unions--New York (State)
Clothing workers--Labor unions--New York (State)
Form and Genre Terms:
Records (documents)
Correspondence
Publications
Access Restrictions:
Access to the collections in the Kheel Center is restricted. Please contact a
reference archivist for access to these materials.
Restrictions on Use:
This collection must be used in keeping with the Kheel Center Information Sheet
and Procedures for Document Use.
Cite As:
ACWA Bessie Hillman Papers #5619/005. Kheel Center for Labor-Management
Documentation and Archives, Cornell University Library.
Related Collections:
5619: ACWA Records
5619 AV: ACTWU Audio-Visual Materials
5619 C-S MB: ACTWU President Jack Sheinkman Additional Books, Memorabilia, and Files
5619 F: ACTWU Motion Picture Films
5619 G: ACTWU Graphics
5619 MB: ACTWU Memorabilia Collection
5619 mf: ACWA Records Parts 1-3 on Microfilm
5619 OH: ACWA Oral History Project Records
5619 P: ACTWU Photographs
5619 PUBS: ACTWU Publications
5619/001: ACTWU Collective Bargaining Agreements
5619/002: ACWA Education Department Records
5619/003: ACWA Sidney Hillman Scrapbooks
5619/004: ACTWU President Jacob Sheinkman Files
5619/004 fiche: ACTWU President Jacob Sheinkman Speeches on Microfiche
5619/006: ACTWU Executive Vice-President's Office Files
5619/007: ACTWU Organizing Department Files
5619/008: ACWA Rieve-Pollock Foundation Files
5619/009: ACTWU Operations Department Sidney Hillman Awards Files
5619/010: ACWA Jacob Potofsky files
5619/011: ACTWU Southern Regional Joint Board Files
5619/012: ACTWU Company Files
5619/013: ACTWU Research Department Correspondence Chronological Files
5619/014: ACWA Local 169 Files
5619/015: ACTWU Department of Occupational Safety and Health Files
5619: ACWA Records
5619 AV: ACTWU Audio-Visual Materials
5619 C-S MB: ACTWU President Jack Sheinkman Additional Books, Memorabilia, and Files
5619 F: ACTWU Motion Picture Films
5619 G: ACTWU Graphics
5619 MB: ACTWU Memorabilia Collection
5619 mf: ACWA Records Parts 1-3 on Microfilm
5619 OH: ACWA Oral History Project Records
5619 P: ACTWU Photographs
5619 PUBS: ACTWU Publications
5619/001: ACTWU Collective Bargaining Agreements
5619/002: ACWA Education Department Records
5619/003: ACWA Sidney Hillman Scrapbooks
5619/004: ACTWU President Jacob Sheinkman Files
5619/004 fiche: ACTWU President Jacob Sheinkman Speeches on Microfiche
5619/006: ACTWU Executive Vice-President's Office Files
5619/007: ACTWU Organizing Department Files
5619/008: ACWA Rieve-Pollock Foundation Files
5619/009: ACTWU Operations Department Sidney Hillman Awards Files
5619/010: ACWA Jacob Potofsky files
5619/011: ACTWU Southern Regional Joint Board Files
5619/012: ACTWU Company Files
5619/013: ACTWU Research Department Correspondence Chronological Files
5619/014: ACWA Local 169 Files
5619/015: ACTWU Department of Occupational Safety and Health Files
Container
|
Description
|
Date
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 1 | 1922-1996 | |
Membership Cards, Articles, Photographs
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 2 | 1946-1987 | |
News Articles, Photographs
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 3 | 1929-1931 | |
Box 1 | Folder 4 | 1946 | |
July 11, 1946
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 5 | 1954 | |
Box 1 | Folder 6 |