ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Records, 1955-1978
Collection Number: 5619/042
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives
Cornell University Library
DESCRIPTIVE SUMMARY
Title:
ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Records, 1955-1978
Repository:
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives
Collection Number:
5619/042
Abstract:
This collection consists of Union Label agreements and correspondence with various
manufacturers, mostly from Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, but a few from
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union.
Creator:
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union.
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America.
Quanitities:
2 cubic feet
Language:
Collection material in English
The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, the most significant union representing
workers in the men's clothing industry, was founded in New York City in 1914 as a
breakaway movement from the United Garment Workers. Radical and immigrant workers
in the tailors' and cutters' locals were the core of the seceding group, which advocated
industrial unionism and economic strikes in opposition to the UGW's craft organization,
which they saw as conservative and timid. Their diverging views had come to the fore
during the historic 1910 dispute at the Chicago firm Hart, Schaffner, and Marx. The
opposition called the strike against the UGW leadership's advice, and reached a path-breaking
agreement with management that established an arbitration system to settle disputes.
Members flocked to the new union. Around 50,000 strong at its founding, by 1920 the
ACWA counted about 170,000 members. Initially composed mostly of immigrants of Jewish
European descent with Socialist leanings, the ACWA quickly welcomed members of a great
number of nationalities and diverse backgrounds. Like in other garment unions, most
workers and many members were women, but the leadership was predominantly male, a
situation that did not change for many decades. Early on the union adopted a centralized
administrative structure combined with industrial unionism, with the joint boards'
by-laws having precedence over those of locals.
Espousing a philosophy perhaps brought over by its early immigrant socialist members,
the Amalgamated went beyond bread and butter issues and adopted a distinctive form
of social unionism that was largely absent in the American labor movement. Starting
in the 1920s, it provided educational opportunities and recreational facilities for
its members, as well as services such as an insurance plan, banks offering personal
loans at low interest rates, low-cost housing cooperatives, medical clinics, and even
union-owned restaurants.
Sidney Hillman was the first president of the new union and the most important officer
in its history. He applied his experience as bargaining representative in Chicago
to the whole industry. Under his leadership the union made significant strides in
securing better wages and working conditions for its members, and at the same time
it consolidated gains and provided stability to the industry through the widespread
adoption of the arbitration system tested at Hart, Schaffner, and Marx. Hillman paid
close attention to industry issues, such as production, pricing, and marketing. In
order to help management meet the competition of non-union firms, the union conducted
studies of efficiency, work methods, and factory costs. Letters to the official publication
of the union, Advance, document the controversy that ensued within the union over
what was perceived to be collaboration with management.
Hillman also understood the importance of labor's involvement in national affairs
and political action. In the 1920s the ACWA sent delegates to the Conference for Progressive
Political Action and to the Farmer-labor party conventions. Although many members
and officers were Socialists, the union stopped short of officially endorsing the
party. Communist attempts at gaining influence within the union were firmly curbed.
Hillman's participation in national affairs and politics became prominent during the
New Deal, when he became a close advisor to Franklin D. Roosevelt on labor and economic
issues. He also served on the board of the National Recovery Administration. Later,
during World War II, he helped establish the Labor's Non Partisan League. He was also
named associate director of the Office of Production Management, which assisted in
mobilizing the nation's resources for the war effort. Hillman's prestige perhaps reflected
the healthy condition of his union, which by the end of the conflict was strong and
stable.
During the post World War II period the union faced a number of significant challenges.
Membership continued to grow (peaking at 395,000 in 1968), but the union's political
influence and visibility in national affairs declined. In their never ending pursuit
of lower production costs, many firms relocated to the South, forcing the union to
engage in large organizing efforts. Simultaneously, signs began to appear of changes
that would lead to the almost complete demise of the domestic apparel industry and,
ultimately, to the erosion of union membership. Foreign imports of cheap clothing
goods steadily grew in the 1950s and 1960s, and mushroomed in the following two decades,
plunging employment in the apparel sector into a steady decline. Union efforts to
stem the tide included Buy American campaigns and extensive lobbying in Congress,
but they were to no avail. In 1976, the ACWA merged with the Textile Workers of America
to become the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. Despite successful and
much publicized nationwide actions such as the Farah boycott and the J.P. Stevens
corporate campaign, the woes threatening the union's existence continued unabated.
The fate of the domestic industry was sealed in the late 1970s and the 1980s by the
flight of firms chasing tax breaks and cheap labor abroad. By 1995, when ACTWU voted
to merge with the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, their combined membership
was 350,000. The new Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE!)
seemed poised to infuse new life in a troubled union.
Access to the collections in the Kheel Center is restricted. Please contact a reference
archivist for access to these materials.
This collection must be used in keeping with the Kheel Center Information Sheet and
Procedures for Document Use.
INFORMATION FOR USERS
ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Records #5619/042. Kheel Center for Labor-Management
Documentation and Archives, Cornell University Library.
Related collections: 5619: Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America 5619/042 MB: ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Memorabilia And all other 5619 collections.
Names:
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union
Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union --Archives
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America --Archives
International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union --Archives
Union of Needeltrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE) --Archives
UNITE HERE (Organization) --Archives
Subjects:
Textile industry--New York (State)--New York
Textile workers--Labor unions--New York (State)--New York
Clothing trade--New York (State)--New York
Clothing workers--Labor unions--New York (State)--New York
CONTAINER LIST
Container
|
Description
|
Date
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 1 |
Appollo Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 2 |
Asbury Sportswear
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 3 |
Ascot Manufacturing
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 4 |
Ashley Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 5 |
William Atkin Shirt
|
1956-1967 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 6 |
Atlantic Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 7 |
Banner Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 8 |
Bartlay
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 9 |
Bayard Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 10 |
Best Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 11 |
Boblen Shirt
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 12 |
Brill Shirt and Neckwear
|
1958-1960 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 13 |
Burton Manufacturing
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 14 |
Burnley Shirt
|
1960-1974 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 15 |
Butler Shirt
|
1956-1958 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 16 |
Carlton Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 17 |
Cluett, Peabody and Company
|
1955-1974 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 18 |
Creighton Shirt
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 19 |
S. Dennis
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 20 |
Die and Stamp Makers
|
1955-1972 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 21 |
Charles Dobbs
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 22 |
Eagle Shirtmakers
|
1955-1970 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 23 |
Elizabeth Shirt
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 24 |
Elm City Shirt
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 25 |
El Rey Manufacturing
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 26 |
Larry R. Engelson
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 27 |
Enro Shirt
|
1955-1972 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 28 |
Fair Manufacturing
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 29 |
Fashion Glenshire
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 30 |
M. Fine and Sons Manufacturing
|
1972 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 31 |
Flair-Tex
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 32 |
Flushing Shirt
|
1955-1976 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 33 |
Fredwin Casuals
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 34 |
Freedman Rodelheim Shirtmakers
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 35 |
Fruitland Manufacturing
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 36 |
Gant of New Haven
|
1955-1975 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 37 |
Gateway Manufacturing
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 38 |
Glaser Enterprises
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 39 |
Gold Medal Shirt
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 40 |
Greystone Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 41 |
Hamilton Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 42 |
Harwood Manufacturing
|
1955-1975 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 43 |
C. F. Hathaway
|
1955-1969 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 44 |
Hema Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 45 |
Henry Charles
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 46 |
Holbrooke Shirt
|
1964-1965 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 47 |
Ide Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 48 |
International Ticket
|
1955-1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 49 |
Joel Isaacs Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 50 |
F. Jacobson and Sons
|
1955-1970 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 51 |
J. and R. Shirt
|
1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 52 |
Kaymore Shirt
|
1955-1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 53 |
David Kurtz
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 54 |
Lehman Baer
|
1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 55 |
Lesnow Manufacturing
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 56 |
Leventhal Brothers
|
1956-1977 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 57 |
Lido Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 58 |
Linwood Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 59 |
Loeb and Loeb
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 60 |
Loev Brothers
|
1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 61 |
Lustbery, Nast and Company
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 62 |
Lynn Shirt
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 63 |
McGregor Sportswear (D. Doniger)
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 1 | Folder 64 |
Manhattan Shirt
|
1955-1974 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 1 |
Marlboro Shirt
|
1955-1958 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 2 |
Marvlee Manufacturing
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 3 |
Mather Shirts
|
1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 4 |
Steve Matson Products
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 5 |
M and B Sportswear
|
1958 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 6 |
Elton Meltzer
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 7 |
Meyersdale Shirt
|
1956-1958 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 8 |
Morgan Shirt
|
1970 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 9 |
M and S Shirt
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 10 |
Normandie Press
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 11 |
Oberman and Company
|
1956-1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 12 |
O. K. Uniform
|
1958 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 13 |
Par-Ex Shirt (Sero of New Haven)
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 14 |
Park Guild Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 15 |
Parkley Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 16 |
Peerless Robes and Sportswear
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 17 |
Pelham Sportswear
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 18 |
Al Peter Shirt
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 19 |
Pine Shirt and Pajama
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 20 |
Pottstown Shirt
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 21 |
Publix Shirt
|
1955-1977 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 22 |
Quaker Shirt
|
1955-1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 23 |
M. H. Raab Meyerhoff
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 24 |
Radiant Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 25 |
Rich Guild Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 26 |
Rivoli Shirt
|
1955-1958 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 27 |
Rob Roy
|
1955-1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 28 |
Rubury Shirt
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 29 |
Sagamore Shirt
|
1956-1958 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 30 |
Sam-Son Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 31 |
Savada Brothers
|
1957-1960 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 32 |
Seaford Garment
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 33 |
Shelby Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 34 |
Shirtcraft
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 35 |
Shirt Label Requests
|
1978 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 36 |
Shirt Union Label Records. M
|
1955-1972 |
Scope and Contents
Form I, Form II, and Label Die invoices.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 37 |
Shirt Union Label Records. N-P
|
1955-1977 |
Scope and Contents
Form I, Form II, and Label Die invoices.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 38 |
Shirt Union Label Records. Q-Z
|
1955-1970 |
Scope and Contents
Form I, Form II, and Label Die invoices.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 39 |
Silver Springs Sportswear
|
1956-1972 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 40 |
Southeastern Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 41 |
Spaide Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 42 |
S and S Shirt
|
1972 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 43 |
Sportsville Menswear
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 44 |
Stratford Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 45 |
Robert Terry Garment
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 46 |
Tyson Shirt
|
1955-1957 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 47 |
Louis R. Ulanoff
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 48 |
Neckwear Union Label Die
|
1961 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 49 |
Union Label
|
1955-1970 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 50 |
Union Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 51 |
Usona Shirt
|
1955-1959 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 52 |
Victory Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 53 |
Bernard Walsh
|
|
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 54 |
Warrenshire Shirt
|
1955 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 55 |
Watson Shirt
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 56 |
Weiss Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 57 |
Whitney Shirt
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 58 |
Wide Awake Shirt
|
1956-1976 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 59 |
J. E. Wiegard
|
1957-1965 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 60 |
Wilson Brothers
|
1955-1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Agreement and Correspondence.
|
|||
Box 2 | Folder 61 |
Yardleigh Sportswear
|
1956 |
Scope and Contents
Union Label Correspondence.
|