Decision of the Boards Regarding Hart, Schaffner & Marx, Chicago Industrial Federation
of Clothing Manufacturers, 1913- 1925
Collection Number: 5107
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives
Cornell University Library
DESCRIPTIVE SUMMARY
Title:
Decision of the Boards Regarding Hart, Schaffner & Marx, Chicago Industrial Federation
of Clothing Manufacturers, 1913- 1925
Repository:
Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives
Collection Number:
5107
Abstract:
Hart, Schaffner & Marx, Chicago Industrial Federation of Clothing Manufacturers, United
Garment Workers and the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America Board of Arbitration
and the Trade Board : decisions of the Boards, 1913-1925.
Creator:
Board of Arbitration
Trade Board
Quanitities:
2 cubic feet
Language:
Collection material in English
Section I
In 1910 the clothing industry was made up of many small tailor shops, the Chicago
Wholesale Clothiers Association (an organization of large firms) and Hart, Schaffner
and Marx, the one big firm which refused to join the Association. As competition forced
the smaller shops out of independent existence, many of them turned to contract work
for the larger shops. Finally, Hart, Schaffner and Marx withdrew all their work from
the contractors and opened inside shops, employing over 8,000 workers.
This was the signal for both groups to try to reduce their labor costs and the worker
was caught in the middle. Almost without exception they were recent immigrants from
several European nations who had learned their trade at home and had no other skill.
They were without a common language, unable to speak English and had no knowledge
of industrial conditions in America. Few of them were organized in a trade union,
the work was seasonal in character and an abundant supply of labor was available so
that the worker's earnings were low and his hours excessive.
Wages averaged from four to fourteen dollars a week and the day began at 7:30 a.m.
and lasted until six. On September 22, 1910 Hart, Schaffner and Marx reduced the rate
for seaming pants from four cents a pair to 3.74 cents. Several girls walked out rather
than accept the cut, and this unexpectedly provoked an immediate response in the other
shops.
A group of workers appealed to District Council 6 of the United Garment Workers for
help, but not until more than 18,000 had walked off the job and the Chicago Daily
Socialist threatened to publish a call for a general strike did the Council act. Then
the strike grew so fast they were unable to handle it alone.
The Chicago Federation of Labor and the Women's Trade Union League supported the
strikers and early in November a Joint Strike Conference Board was set up.
On November 5, the United Garment Workers signed an agreement with Hart, Schaffner
and Marx, alone, and when it was presented to the workers they turned it down. A second
agreement was proposed in December and voted down.
On January 11, 1911 Hart, Schaffner and Marx and the United Garment Workers agreed
to a settlement which stipulated that all employees be returned to work without discrimination
against union members, and an arbitration committee of three be chosen to settle all
grievances.
The Joint Board selected Clarence Darrow as their arbitrator and Hart, Schaffner
end Marx chose Carl Meyer. Unable to secure a third arbitrator, the parties agreed
that the Board of Arbitration would be made up of only two. Among the first recommendations
of the new board was one suggesting the company provide a means of handling grievances
which resulted in setting up a Labor Complaint Department. During its first year the
Department handled over 800 complaints. The arbitrators met fifty times and handed
down twenty written decisions and many oral ones.
The system, however, was not satisfactory. It still took too long for a case to be
decided and discontent grew. A conference proposed that a committee of five (two from
the company, two from the union and a fifth chosen by the four) be appointed to formulate
rules and adjust prices. This committee created a Trade Board of eleven members whose
decisions would be binding unless appealed to the Board of Arbitration in three days.
Later the Trade Board was reduced to five members and a third person selected for
the Board of Arbitration. A new agreement was signed in 1913 which continued in effect
through the period of the formation of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers and the general
strikes of 1915-16. There were no work stoppages at Hart, Schaffner and Marx.
John E. Williams served as impartial chairman of the Board of Arbitration from 1912
until his death in 1919. James H. Tufts served until 1921, when he was succeeded by
Harry A. Millis. In 1923 William M. Leiserson became impartial chairman.
* Section II
On February 3, 1911 the United Garment Workers called off the general strike. The
workers slowly trickled back to the other firms without any agreement. Dissatisfaction
with the United Garment Workers came to a head in the 191?- convention at Nashville
when a rump convention elected a second slate of officers, which in a second convention
adopted the name of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers.
The Amalgamated launched an organizing drive in the summer of 1915 and at a mass
meeting in Chicago in September a list of demands on the non-union manufacturers was
drawn up with an ultimatum that if they were not met a general strike would be called.
The strike lasted until December 12, 1915, and although the union was not recognized,
several concessions were made by the employers.
Organization of the market continued, but it was not until May 1919 that all of the
associations recognized the union. In that agreement arbitration machinery patterned
after the experience under the Hart, Schaffner and Marx agreement was set up. Although
there were separate agreements and separate impartial machinery set up, the personnel
of the two boards were the same. In the late 30's the boards were merged to form a
single trade board and a single board of arbitration for the entire market.
Hart, Schaffner & Marx, Chicago Industrial Federation of Clothing Manufacturers, United
Garment Workers and the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America Board of Arbitration
and the Trade Board : decisions of the Boards, 1913-1925.
Access to the collections in the Kheel Center is restricted. Please contact a reference
archivist for access to these materials.
This collection must be used in keeping with the Kheel Center Information Sheet and
Procedures for Document Use.
INFORMATION FOR USERS
Decision of the Boards Regarding Hart, Schaffner & Marx, Chicago Industrial Federation
of Clothing Manufacturers #5107. Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and
Archives, Cornell University Library.
Related Collections: 5108: Rochester (NY) Clothiers Exchange Arbitration Files 5110: Jacob Billikopf New York City Men's Clothing Industry Arbitration Case Files 5619: ACWA Records 5619/001: ACTWU Collective Bargaining Agreements 5619/003: ACWA Sidney Hillman Scrapbooks 5619/005: ACWA Bessie Hillman Papers 5619/010: ACWA Jacob Potofsky files 5619/012: ACTWU Company Files 5619/018: ACTWU Secretary-Treasurer's Office Files 5619/036: ACTWU President's Office Murray Finley Files 5619/040: ACWA Sidney Hillman Award Files 5981 P: ACTWU Labor Unity Photograph Files 5999 P: Jacob Potofsky Photographs 6000/048: UNITE Executive Assistant to the President David Melman Papers 6046: Archives Union File (AUF) 6060 mf: American Trust for the British Library Project Master Negatives on Microfilm
Names:
Chicago Industrial Federation of Clothing Manufacturers.
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America--Sources.
Hart, Schaffner & Marx--Sources.
Industrial Federation of Clothing Manufacturers--Sources.
United Garment Workers of America--Sources.
Subjects:
Arbitration, Industrial--United States--Sources.
CONTAINER LIST
Container
|
Description
|
Date
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 1 |
John E. Williams: In Tribute (1 of 3)
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 2 |
John E. Williams: In Tribute (2 of 3)
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 3 |
John E. Williams: In Tribute (3 of 3)
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 4 |
Men's Clothing Board - Chicago Market
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 5 |
Men's Clothing Industry Chicago Market - Decisions of the Board of Arbitration Direct
and Appealed (1919-1925)
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 6 |
Men's Clothing Industry Chicago Market - Decisions of the Trade Board and the Board
of Arbitration Volume 1
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 7 |
Men's Clothing Industry Chicago Market - Decisions of the Trade Board and the Board
of Arbitration Volume 2
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 8 |
Men's Clothing Industry Chicago Market - Decisions of the Trade Board and the Board
of Arbitration Volume 3
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 9 |
Men's Clothing Industry Chicago Market - Decisions of the Trade Board and the Board
of Arbitration Volume 4
|
|
Box 1 | Folder 10 |
Men's Clothing Industry Chicago Market - Decisions of the Trade Board and the Board
of Arbitration Volume 5
|
|
Box 2 | Folder 1 |
Trade Board Men's Clothing Industry Chicago Market - Record Group D-I 8
|
|
Box 2 | Folder 2 |
Trade Board Decisions October 1921
|
|
Box 2 | Folder 3 |
Trade Board Decisions October 1921
|
|
Box 2 | Folder 4 |
Cases Decided by the Board of Arbitration, Direct and Appealed (1913-1925)
|